Memoirs of a Geisha

Remember that book? If you don’t, go read it. I just reread it at the beginning of our trip, and it is mainly set in Kyoto, specifically in the neighborhood of Gion. That’s where we started off on Sunday, and it was a bit of a thrill to step out of the subway station next to the kabuki theater mentioned in the book, and to walk down the street past the red walls of the prominent Ichiriki teahouse where the geishas entertained.

Our destination was Yasaka Shrine, where we strolled through the buildings and continued on to Maruyama Park just behind the shrine. It had been recommended as a good stop for kids, and didn’t disappoint. Ren peered closely into the pond looking for fish, and was thrilled when Adam showed her that if you clap they come. The pigeons were also a big hit, and she chased them in her funny stuttering way back and forth over a little bridge. Luckily, Ren didn’t fall in, and no pigeons or fish were harmed in her delight.

We continued uphill to Chion-in Temple, the head temple of the Jodo sect of Buddhism. I listened to the monks chanting, and we saw the largest temple bell in Japan. We also purchased a goshuin-cho (special shrine book), that many people use to collect stamps and calligraphy from temples. Thus began our quest! It was a lot of fun to seek out the calligraphers at each temple or shrine, and made for a great souvenir. It reminded me of the pilgrim passports from the Camino de Santiago, and apparently Japanese pilgrims use these to record their travels too.

Ren was in need of a nap, so she and I went back to our house, while Adam and Grant kept exploring. They found old Kyoto, and took me back to the narrow shopping streets that evening. This is clearly a touristy area, but was fun to poke around all the little shops, and of course our friend Hello Kitty was well represented. Ren was riding high on our shoulders with her Hello Kitty hat on too, greeting her public.

We saw a few geisha on a side street, which made my trip, and ended our evening with Korean BBQ, watching Ren watching music videos and dancing along from her seat.